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Weekly selection: Müller-Catoir Mussbach

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Weekly Selection

Müller-Catoir, one of the finest producers in Pfalz, has been in the same family since 1744. Today the estate is run by the ninth generation, Philipp David Catoir, alongside winemaker Martin Franzen, who has been there since 2001.

The vineyards have been farmed organically and biodynamically since 2007, and the quality has climbed noticeably in recent years. Riesling is the mainstay, but Müller-Catoir also produces consistently impressive reds from Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder as it's known in Germany. Light, textured, delicate and generous, and priced far below what the quality would suggest.

The 21 hectares of vineyard are harvested entirely by hand, producing around 150,000 bottles in an average vintage. The plots are spread across several villages, giving the estate a wide range of soils to work with. The Mussbach vineyard, for instance, sits on gravel left behind by the last Ice Age, and is planted mostly with Riesling. And, thankfully, a little Spätburgunder.

The wine is best served slightly chilled, and pairs beautifully with light meats, veal, pork, and mushrooms.