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Weekly Selection: Great champagne, greater format.

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Weekly Selection

Henriot's Souverain from 2010 is an incredibly good buy. At 2,700 kroner, the price per standard bottle works out to 675 kroner. And that in a double magnum bottle which ages even better than the smaller formats.

The Champagne house Henriot was founded by the young widow Apolline Henriot in 1808. She also created the house's classic non-vintage champagne, Brut Souverain, which is still their standard cuvée. The wine is made from a blend of grapes from the house's 29 cru villages, and normally also a blend of vintages. But their double magnum is an exception. On the large bottles they have begun to note on the back label the base year of the champagne along with their reserve wine, réserve perpétuelle, which Henriot started in 1969. All bottles of Souverain contain some of this in the blend, to create more body and complexity. Henriot has created a wonderfully composed champagne in its "standard cuvée" from 2010. Souverain is available in standard bottle and magnum. But the more mature 2010 vintage is only available in double magnum.